I love September in Austin when the heat breaks and I can start to plan my fall garden.  I think cool night temperatures have the most wonderful rejuvenating effect on what’s already in the ground.  If I were to make a chart of the leaf size of my collard greens throughout the year, I think it would look something like this… (no actual measurements were made)

This year I’m most excited about growing mixed lettuces.  I planted last year’s crop in December with starts from a nursery, but this year I am using seeds because I am a frugal lady.  When planting seed directly in the ground, it’s important to keep the first 2 inches of soil consistently moist for proper germination.  It takes several days of exposure to moisture for the little plant inside the seed to begin growing, and then the tiny sprouts that shoot out of the ground must have an adequate supply of water as the tiny root system has not developed enough to forage deep underground.  If the seedlings are neglected or the temperature jumps back up over 100 degrees, you will have to sow again.

To ensure that your vegetables are well cared for in their first weeks of life, you must properly prepare your garden beds.  Mix 2 inches of compost into the top layer of soil the week before you plant seeds.  Water the bed thoroughly the day before planting, and again the day of.  It is even more helpful if you can plan this to coincide with a few rainy or overcast days.  Any rain in Central Texas seems to be preceded by a few days of incredible humidity, so watch for that cue.  I’ve also heard that the flowers of the Mexican bush sage cenizo (oops) usually show up about a week before a good storm.  The depth at which seeds are planted has a tremendous effect on the success of your sowing.  Follow the directions on the seed packet, but also keep this in mind- big, tough seeds should be planted deeper than thin, light seeds.  Beet and spinach seeds like to be 1/2″  under the soil, but lettuce must be only just barely covered as it cannot germinate without light.

Once your seeds sprout, you will see nubby little leaves poking up out of the soil.  These leaves are called cotyledons and contain stored food from inside the seed.  They cannot photosynthesize.  New sprouts must be gently watered each day until they develop their first true leaves.  The true leaves are the second set of leaves to appear and are the first leaves to photosynthesize.  When the true leaves appear, it is safe to add dilute amounts of a 1-2-1 (N-P-K) fertilizer.  Moderation is key- although they need more phosphorous than other major nutrients, they do not need large quantities.  A salesperson at a nursery can direct you to an appropriate blend.  Some gardeners choose to forgo fertilizer completely at this stage.

So this year in addition to lettuce, I’ve sown the first fall bed with spinach, chard, carrots, and beets.  I also tossed around parsley and cilantro seeds.  For beginners, I certainly recommend planting in rows or orderly grids because it takes the guesswork out of weeding and harvesting, but I love the disorder of a vegetable/herb matrix.  Matrices are composed of many different plants and are most suited to raised beds.  Each plant has its own nutritional needs, a unique root structure, and its own host of pests and parasites.  In a monoculture, plants are competing against and sharing parasites with their neighbors, but in a matrix different plants may be complementary.  For example, the strong scent of basil drives away the tomato hornworm, while cilantro deters aphids.  Other herbs and flowers attract pollinators and add interest to your garden.

When I design gardens for others, I create beds with groups of similar vegetables but often tuck a few complementary herbs into the corners.  Whether it is best to plant in a matrix or use traditional groupings is up to each gardener.  We all have our own preferences and with the right care and attention any garden can be productive.